Pumpkin Bagels

I have never had a New York bagel. New Jersey bagels, yes. This past summer, we were driving home from our holiday on Martha's Vineyard, and we stopped at a New Jersey exit to fill the car with gas and ourselves with coffee. It was there that we spotted a sign for bagels. My family takes bagels very seriously, so we carefully nudged the car (sailboat in tow) into the tiny parking lot and all but bought the deli out. After a slightly stressful extraction of the car from the parking lot, just managing to avoid both parked and moving cars, we continued on our way. I ate my salt bagel whole and plain, and it was delicious.

This spoon knows bread better than anyone I know

So I haven't had a New York bagel, but I've had one from New Jersey, and from Brueggers, and from Dooley's. And possibly the tastiest Everything Bagel at Please & Thank You, although I'm not quite sure if they make theirs in house or not. But the bagels I've eaten most come from my mother's kitchen. My mother regularly makes bagels, and these too I often eat plain, or with a thick slice of sharp cheddar. Her go-to flavours are citrus-and-cranberry, or poppy and sesame seed. But over the holidays, I suggested we make pumpkin bagels, and she readily agreed.

 These bagels were a complete collaboration, I peeking over my mom's shoulder as she boiled the bagels, the two of us poking holes into the plump, springy dough. The recipe is utterly hers; all I supplied was the suggestion to use leftover pumpkin. And it's a good recipe for two to tackle: one person to chase the bagels around the molasses-tinted water while the other finishes shaping the dough. I suppose, in other words, the recipe is a bit complex. But it's terrific for a low-key afternoon that invites you into the kitchen.

This recipe is my mother's classic bagel recipe; we just added pureed pumpkin and a bit of spice
—or, rather, a few bits of spice. Cinnamon, allspice, ginger and cardamom. If you fancied, you could add or remove any flavouring you'd like. The result is a chewy, dense bagel that can lend itself to sweet or savory. The general consensus is that butter goes best, but the bagel really is your canvas.

Pumpkin Bagels
Ingredients:
2 1/2 cups water
1 package active dry yeast
1 TBSP molasses, honey, barley malt, or granulated sugar
1/2 cup gluten (optional: it does add extra chewiness, but the bagels will still be beautiful and tasty without it)
4 1/2 cups white bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. salt
1 cup pureed pumpkin, canned or homemade
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ginger
1/2 tsp. allspice
1/2 tsp. cardamom

Directions:
--In a small saucepan, heat water to wrist temperature. Put yeast and molasses (or other sweetener) into a bowl and pour warm water over. Let sit until yeast is proofed, about ten minutes.
--Combine gluten, flour and salt in a large bowl. Add yeast mixture, pumpkin and spices. Stir with a wooden spoon until dough begins to form. Using hands, knead until smooth, adding more flour if necessary. Cover bowl with a towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled, 1 1/2-2 hours.
--Heat a large pot of water mixed with 1/3 cup molasses or barley malt to a boil. While water is heating, divide dough into 8-12 balls. Let rest 10 minutes, then shape into bagels by poking holes into the middle of the balls.
--Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Add bagels to water 3-4 at a time and boil for 1 minute on each side, using a spatula to turn over. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment. Bake for 35-40 minutes, or until bagels sound hollow when tapped. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack. Eating while warm is advised.